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The Quintessential Vienna Travel Guide

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I have realized that my travel style has changed with age and my priorities have shifted as I have gotten older. I now prefer a slower pace with the ultimate goal of really taking in a place. That is why I have put together this Vienna travel guide to help you plan the perfect trip to this lovely European capital.

At least that is what I am telling myself about my recent trip to Vienna, Austria, which would explain my TOTAL lack of taking enough good pictures for this post. Rather than NOT post, which is what I have been doing, I’ve decided to work with what I’ve got!

This was my second trip to Vienna and honestly, it’s better than Paris, but please don’t tell the French (I still love you France)! In fact, I tacked on this short trip to Vienna after a three-week stay in Antibes (Antibes me manque), which proves that I still love France!

Hofburg Palace in Vienna in the summer. There are fluffy clouds in the sky above the building. The dome is aquamarine green due to patina with gold trim. There are four statues at the opening of the palace and four sets of two columns above the head's of the statues. There are two horse drawn carriages in front of the building.
Vienna’s Imperial Hofburg Palace

An Overview Of Austria

Austria is a small-ish country in the Southeastern region of Europe. It is bordered by eight (!) countries: Germany, Switzerland, Lichtenstein, Italy, the Czech Republic, Slovenia, Hungary, and Slovakia. Austrian German is the official language, but many regional dialects exist as well.

The capital, Vienna, or Wien if you prefer it in the native language is home to some great stuff, which we’ll get to later in the post.

Austria was never really a place that was a high priority on my list of places to visit, which was clearly a HUGE oversight on my part because it is an awesome place if you like to do awesome things. If you don’t like awesome things, then Austria isn’t the place for you.

Austria is probably most famous for its sole winter activity (yes, only one activity): skiing in the Alps (insert the standard disclaimer here that I am being sarcastic). In fact, so many Austrians ski that I am convinced that they are born with skis strapped to their tiny little baby feet (their poor mothers). I haven’t seen solid proof of this yet, so probably don’t trust me on that.

They have a ton of summer activities too. Hiking! Music! Arts! Food! What else? Oh. Food! Wine! Beer! Parks! Wine (my favorite varietal of white wine is Grüner Veltliner).

The Gloriette building on the grounds of the Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna, Austria. In front of the building is a pond and there are many white, fluffy clouds in the sky above the building. There are green trees to the right of the building.
Gloriette Schönbrunn

How To Get There

The easiest way to get there from the US (where I am based) is via plane to Vienna International Airport (airport code VIE). Austrian Airlines has one direct flight between O’Hare Internation Airport (ORD) each day (I think), but so do nearly all the major US air carriers. Once you have arrived at the airport, you can take a train, taxi, or Uber into the city center (FYI, über is a real German word and it means above). But seriously, just take a train, because they’re fast, easy, cheap, efficient, and clean.

Train Options

  • There are three main train stations in Vienna, Wien Hauptbahnhof, Wien Westbahnhof, and Wien Mitte. Wien Hauptbahnhof is the main train station in Vienna.

City Airport Train (CAT)

The CAT is a non-stop train between VIE and Wien Mitte. I took this train to and from the airport and I really enjoyed it.

  • Pros: it is clean, relatively on time (which helps reduce any stress related to getting to the airport on time for your flight!), fast (16 minutes!), and affordable.
  • Con (there’s only one in my opinion): for some reason at the airport terminus, there is no escalator, only stairs and an elevator (which I tried to use due to my chronic inability to pack light, but it was taking a while and I didn’t want to miss the train so I schlepped my suitcases down the stairs freaking out that I was going to miss the train and sweating because #heatwave #noairconditioning).
  • Suggestions: buy your ticket online, which I think is a bit cheaper than if you buy them at the airport, and the conductors scanned my ticket electronically on the train.
  • Cost (when purchased online): €19 for a return ticket (at the time of publishing). €11.00 for a single ticket.

S7 Train

The S7 train is an express train from VIE airport to various train stations (Wien Mitte and Praterstern). I haven’t taken this train personally, but I have taken many trains in Austria, and I imagine this train is a great option as well.

  • Pros: Cheaper than the CAT.
  • Con: Slower than the CAT.
  • Suggestions: buy your ticket online at ÖBB’s website.
  • Cost: €8.60 (at the time of publishing) for a return ticket (€4.30 each way)

Other Public Transportation

ÖBB has other public transportation options (trains other than those listed above as well as buses) and they have a handy route planner, which can be found here.

St. Charles Church, a Catholic Church in Vienna, Austria. There is one main dome that is aquamarine green in color due to the patina. There are two large columns on either side of the main dome with mini domes that are also patinaed. At the top of the columns, underneath the domes are gold-leafed animals.
Karlskirche

What To Do In Vienna

Obviously, you have the freedom to decide, but since you’re at my lovely blog, I’d love to recommend the following options. I don’t necessarily recommend doing all of these things in 5 days, so pick and choose accordingly and know thyself.

Take German Classes

  • I haven’t done this, yet, but it’s on my bucket list (seriously, I’m a nerd and I love learning languages). A quick Google search provides lots of options. Actilingua looks like it’s a good option and the reviews are positive, plus they have multiple accommodation options. Other options can be found here.

Visit a Museum (or lots of museums!)

  • Vienna is home to some world-class museums and you could spend a whole week in Vienna just visiting the museums.
The natural history museum in Vienna, Austria. The building has a main entryway that is taller than the rest of the building. There is a central dome that is dark grey in color with four smaller domes on each corner surrounding the main dome. There are two tourists standing in front of the building.
Naturhistoriches Museum

Soak in the Viennese Culture

As previously mentioned, I’ve been to Vienna twice now, so, naturally, I am an expert. My first visit was in the fall of 2019 (right before the pandemic hit) and earlier this summer (during an unprecedented European heat wave…I’m sensing that I may be the problem here).

Anywho…when you read about Viennese culture, you’ll read about their traditional Kaffeehäuser, operas, theater, museums, imperial palaces (which are simply magnificent), etc. But what I appreciated the most about the people of Vienna was how they really seemed to savor time outside, either with other people or alone.

If you’re interested in trying this out, here are my suggestions:

Go to any park with a simple picnic and book

My favorite park is Stadtpark, but there are loads of other parks that are great too.

The grocery stores are smaller and all carry cold bottles of wine (sometimes in smaller sizes) and individual beers. Grab some fruits and veggies, bread from the bakery case (always fresh), hummus, and olives, and you’re set for a lovely picnic.

You can also get some food to go from a kebab stand or other restaurant to take to the park instead.

Pass the time at the Museumsquartier

Located in the 7th district of Vienna, this area covers 90,000 square km (!) and contains a mixture of Baroque and modern architectural styles. Commonly referred to as the MQ, there are a handful of museums and other art installations in this area. The space also hosts festivals and has artist studios for artists-in-residence.

Spend some time at a rooftop bar

I was lucky enough to visit a free rooftop bar at the JO&JOE hostel next to Wien Westbahnhof.

Take the elevator up to the top floor and buy yourself a Spritzwein (wine spritzer) to enjoy the 360-degree views of Wien.

A view from a rooftop deck of the city of Vienna, Austria just before a rain storm is about to hit. The clouds are darkened on the bottom, but light at the top, as the sun is still shinning behind them.
The View From JO&JOE Rooftop

Schönbrunn Tiergarten – the Schönbrunn Zoo

The Schönbrunn Zoo is reportedly the world’s oldest zoo. It was established in the park of the Habsburgs’ Schönbrunn Palace (thus the name).

  • Location: Vienna’s 13th district on the grounds of the Schönbrunn Palace.
  • Established: 31 July 1752!
  • Cost: Adults €24, children €14. Find more information on pricing and opening hours here.
  • Note: I have a complicated relationship with zoos and aquariums. I love animals (they’re my job!) and I realize that reputable zoos and aquariums have a mission and their number one priority is animal welfare. BUT, I also hate seeing wild animals caged. And when these places are bad, they are BAD. I mean really bad. All of this is to say, that you’ll have to decide for yourself if you support zoos.

Visit a Traditional Viennese Kaffeehaus

  • A traditional (ish) Viennese Kaffeehaus is a must in my opinion. I say traditional-ish because I don’t recommend that you go to one of the more “famous” Kaffeehaus — there’s usually a line out of the door and I personally don’t think that you get the real traditional feeling due to how busy they are. With that in mind, I did visit a more well-known Kaffeehaus where there was no wait, there was a mix of locals and tourists, and it felt authentic inside.
  • Kaffeehäuser: I went to Café Schwarzenburg, the alleged oldest Kaffeehaus on the Ringstrasse. There is a list of other Kaffeehäuser on one of my favorite websites about Vienna if you’re looking for another option. But trust me, Café Schwarzenburg is a great option.
  • What to drink: My favorite coffee drink is the Wiener Melange, which is described as a “small espresso with creamy milk and milk foam”. My second favorite option is the Eiskaffee, which isn’t an iced coffee as the word may lead you to believe, but more like a delicious dessert! Café Schwarzenburg described this drink as “vanilla ice cream served with cooled coffee, garnished with whipped cream and chocolate pieces”.
  • Cake: Torte are a very special part of this coffee house culture. To be honest, in the US, a lot of these types of cakes are dry and have no good flavor. But I’ve had two different cakes at different cafés and they have both been excellent! Not too sweet, moist, good flavor. An ideal slice of cake in my mind.

Where to Stay

  • Obviously, Vienna has tons of places to stay, and where to stay really depends on what you are looking for.
  • I booked my stay last minute, during the summer, which meant that my choices were limited. However, I chose to stay at the Parkview Residences, which was a short walk from the Wien Mitte train station and I don’t regret it.
  • Location: Amazing! I wish I had more time to explore the surrounding area because towards the end of my stay I ventured Northeast toward the Danube River and found some really great places.
    • Stadtpark was right across the street, literally. I was so lucky!
  • As I mentioned in my post about Antibes, I really like booking.com for finding great places to stay in Europe.
    • I’ve started using them for US travel too when I’m taking road trips and I haven’t been disappointed.
  • Of course, Airbnb is an option too, as are hotels if that is more your style.
  • After my visit to the rooftop bar at the JO&JOE hostel, I would not hesitate to stay there either. In fact, I plan to stay there in the future, either in Vienna, or at one of their other locations. Hostel World is a good place to look for hostels.
The Schloss Belvedere upper building. The whole roof of the building is patinaed and there are four domes on each corner of the building.  In front of the palace is a large man-made pond and the grounds surrounding the pond are well kept. There are red and white flowers in the lower right front corner of the picture.
Schloss Belvedere Upper Building

Where to Eat

Traditional Austrian food is meat-heavy (including horse –eek), but luckily, at least in Vienna, there are more and more vegan and gluten-free options. Here are some places that I can highly recommend:

Swing Kitchen

A 100% vegan restaurant with at least 11 locations in Vienna (and apparently in Germany and Switzerland too!). Swing Kitchen was so good, that I ate there twice!

  • I liked the Swing Burger so much that I ordered it both times with a side of French fries.
  • The tiramisu wasn’t to my taste and do not recommend it (to be fair, I am extremely picky about my desserts).

Veggiezz

Another 100% vegan resturant with two locations in Vienna and four total locations. I ate a leisurely lunch here and it was great.

  • I ordered the Superfood Rollzz, which is a roll with avocado, quinoa, arugula, carrots, red cabbage, and wasabi mayo. Soy sauce and sweet chili sauce were on the side.
  • I also ordered a “side” of avocado toast. Both of these dishes were big, so in the future, I would only order one dish.
  • I drank the Grüner Veltliner, which was nice and light.

Figar

Figar is a MUST-GO for breakfast. I’ve eaten here twice, three years apart, that’s how much I liked it. It has a cool vibe (one that I am NOT cool enough for), simple, but flavorful food, and a house tea that screams comfort on a cool day. A reservation is strongly recommended. Omnivore menu.

Gorilla Kitchen

A good place that is similar to Chipotle, but also different enough to warrant a visit. They make burritos to order, but their vegan options are very different from Chipotle…those options are very unique and really good. Fair warning, their habanero lime sauce is really hot. Like unbearably so. Maybe get it on the side?

Viet Soup

OMG, Viet Soup, how do I love thee??? Such lovely food and service. Very small, very good Vietnamese food. Seemed to be family owned.

A bowl of soup from a Vietnamese restaurant. The soup is a broth based soup with a mixture of vegetables and tofu. There is a cup of green tea in the upper right corner of the photo.
Yummy Soup from Viet Soup

Final Thoughts

It should come as no secret that I love Vienna (Austria too)! And if you’re anything like me, then I’d recommend that you put it on your list, if it’s not already there, or if it is on your list, bump it up a few places. I hope this Vienna Travel Guide was helpful for you.

I would love to hear from you! I would be so grateful if you would drop your thoughts, questions, or comments below, sign up for my email list, and follow me on Instagram!

Pastries and Passports

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